I get a lot of phone calls from people with broken blinds that need repair and thought it might be a good idea to write some articles about do it yourself blind and shade repair. This first article will cover some repairs a homeowner can do on wood blinds or faux wood blinds. Certain repairs are not worth doing or should be left to a professional but there are other repairs that are easy enough for most people who own basic hand tools to perform.
Fortunately most wood blinds are made using standardized parts, meaning that parts from one company are interchangeable with parts from another company, even though they look different. I have run into a few oddball products with proprietary parts and if this turns out to be your product you'll probably have to go back to the manufacturer and next time try to purchase a generic type product with generic parts.
Our first repair is the most common wood blind problem.
REPAIRING A BROKEN WOOD BLIND TILTER. Symptoms include turning the wand but nothing happens or a wand that has separated from the blind due to a broken part on the blind. This is a broken tilter and you will have to take down the blind to do this repair.
Taking down the blind. This likely requires a step stool only. Raise the blind to the top most position and remove the wand. Remove the valance (the decorative molding that covers the top front of the blind) if there is one, they are usually held up with plastic clips. Sometimes the clips break when removing because the plastic gets old and brittle. This is a good time to replace the clips. There are websites that sell blind parts or you can contact victorianorman.com.
Once the valance is removed open the hanging brackets on either end. These typically open by lifting the front like a garage door. There is usually a tab at the bottom that locks it in place. Most brackets will open without the use of tools and except on very narrow blinds you will only have to open one side and just slide the blind out of the other one.
With the blind now laying on the floor or table we will focus on the inner workings of the blind. The largest mechanical part of the blind is the headrail and is made up of a long piece of sheet metal folded up to form a channel or gutter shape. Headrails come in two heights and you will need to know which one you have in order to get the correct tilter. If the headrail is about 1 1/2" high you have a low profile headrail. If the headrail is about 2" high you have a 2" headrail or sometimes its called an oldstyle headrail. On either end of the headrail are caps called end caps. A long turning shaft runs almost the whole width of the headrail and strung onto the shaft are string barrels with string ladders attached. The tilter is the gearbox that changes the vertical twisting motion of the wand into the horizontal twisting motion of the shaft. Sometimes the wand end of the tilter breaks off or the gears inside become stripped and won't activate the shaft. We will now replace the defective tilter.
Tap out both end caps, you can use a screwdriver or small hammer to do this (or both). The caps only work going in one direction so you may want to use a marker to draw an up arrow on the outside of each cap so you can assemble them back later on the same way they came out. Once the endcaps are removed, you can slide the shaft just enough to release it from the tilter box. Pry the headrail slightly apart where the tilter sits to remove the tilter. Some tilters are riveted in but most are not. If the tilter is rivited you will have to drill out the rivits with a small drill, otherwise no tools are required. Install a new tilter again prying the headrail apart gently to seat it. Slide the shaft into the new titler and reinstall the end caps tapping them in gently with a hammer. Reinstall the blind into the brackets, install the wand, and reinstall the valance. Test the blind and you're done!